Last autumn I had the bright idea to invite Andrew J. Harris, my eldest grandchild, on a tour of selected Civil War battlefields during his Spring Break in ’06.
So a week ago the two of us were dropped off at LAX by Andrew’s Dad, Scott. We landed at Dulles, near Washington D.C., rented a Hertz, checked into a Hampton Inn and went to dinner at the Longhorn. The Longhorn featured steaks AI sauce and cold Bass ale, just what we wanted.
Next morning we set off for Harper’s Ferry which is in the north westernmost corner of West Virginia. A couple of hours of nosing around that historic site, where John Brown’s raid was terminated in 1859, by none other than Robert E. Lee and a small company of Federals. Harper’s Ferry was to change hands
nine times during the Civil War. It is a pretty village at the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers, and was also the site of an armory which turned out weapons for many years.
Next with maps unfolded we attempted to find the “short route” from Harper’s Ferry to Antietam the site of a very large battle in September 1862. We never found the direct short route and had to settle for a scenic tour of southern Maryland. We eventually found the visitor center at Antietam, received a description of the battlefield and set out on a driving tour of the battlefield. There were three sections of the battle and the last two were the most interesting to us. The “sunken road” is still there today, a slaughter site that day. The Burnside Bridge over Antietam Creeki is likewise still there and Andrew enjoyed himself by walking over the hallowed grounds of both locations.
Onward to a bad, bad sandwich in Sharpsburg and then a longish drive into Pennsylvania and our next stop Gettysburg. We had a very comfortable motel a few miles south of town and a dinner at a Pub on the Town Square in G’burg. Turns out the Pub was a place that I had enjoyed before on a long ago tour with
Marilyn and Steve Gabel, Sonny’s cousins.
Next day was devoted to Gettysburg College, of interest to Scott and Andrew. Classic Liberal Arts College, with low rise brick buildings, surrounding acres and acres of greensward. Populated by squads of blond blue eyed maidens and healthy looking lads. Looked like a dream to me. So much so that I had to go into the student union and buy souvenirs for Andrew’s sister and myself.
We did the three day battle that afternoon, spending a great deal of time and attention at Little Round Top. Seems Andrew was specially drawn to the Monument for Joshua Chamberlin, which has to be located on the back side of the hill.
My special monuments that I wanted to visit, and did, were the equestrian statues of General Hancock at Gettysburg and General “Stonewall” Jackson at Manassas.
One complaint, the National Park Service could use a Ranger at the several highlight stops on the driving tour ( Little Round Top, the Angle, the High Water Mark, etc to explain to the hordes of school kids and their parents who and what happened at each site. Lacking that, at the Visitor Center, you are solicited to
hire a guide who will ride with you in your car or bus and do a similar job, but the cost of that service is daunting for the individual.
Andrew and I are very well read, have seen the movies and the History Channel’s programming so we didn’t miss a thing. Onward after Gettysburg, to Harrisburg and the National Civil War Museum. We got further north than Lee. The National Civil War Museum is worth seeing and we enjoyed the unique manner in which the history of the period leading up to the Civil War was presented. We spent that night in Manheim, Pa. soaking up Diner culture. We had several meals in Diners which are the family restaurants of the area. You get loads of food for reasonable prices, indifferently served by local high school kids. Incidentally we discovered that each Country Inn and Suites would make forward reservations for us in the next town we were visiting. We took advantage of that service and had excellent accommodations in Country Inns in four locations.
After Manheim and Harrisburg Pa. we headed over to Lancaster and Amish country. In Amish country we observed the horses and buggies, gave them a wide berth on the narrow country roads they share with serious traffic, stopped into gift shops, but didn’t leave any money. However, we did have a family style Amish country dinner, which was spectacular and relatively inexpensive. Loads of appetizers and relishes, followed by veggies, taters and three entrees, all served on help yourself platters eat yourself helpless. Desserts, including the famous Shoo Fly Pie to follow.
That night we enjoyed the hospitality of the too kind Gleiberman family, Mike and Carol were our hosts. There was a sumptuous breakfast the next morning before we left for Baltimore, aided by a hand drawn map given us by Carol which got us to the Inner Harbor in Baltimore without a single misstep.
We climbed Fort McHenry and looked for Francis Scott Key, but strangely he was not represented there. A Japanese lunch (w/ Sushi and Tempura) overlooking the inner harbor on Easter Sunday. In the harbor, beckoning us was a World War II submarine long since retired as a tourist attraction. But both Andrew and I are submariners at heart, so we walked over and took the tour.
What I had forgotten since 1953 was that I could easily get through the hatches between compartments on the submarines alongside the Sperry in San Diego harbor when I was 21 or 22, but 53 years later it was quite a different story. Andrew was pressed into service a couple of times to shove my trailing leg and foot through the hatches. We loved it, but I was sore for days.
From Baltimore to Annapolis is but a skip and jump. The harbor at Annapolis was awash with Midshipman and their parents enjoying the Sunday sun. Andrew was puzzled by all the “airline attendants” in Annapolis until I delicately explained to him that they weren’t airline employees but Middies at the Naval Academy.
Next morning in the pouring rain, with no visibility whatsoever, we made our way cautiously to Bob Steinberg’s town house in Falls Church, Va. We had no luck navigating at all, and had to resort to telephoning Bob several times, using Andrew’s ubiquitous cell phone. Bob, was stationed in his office in front of Map Quest and was able to deliver precise instructions in response to every call.
That afternoon with Bob and his GPS navigation aid we set off for our fourth and last battlefield, Bull Run or Manassas site of two battles. That wrapped up the War between the states, except the next morning waiting to board our plane for the return flight to L.A., I got into a conversation with another History Buff who told us what we had missed. We had not had a chance on this trip to see the battlefields of Fredricksburg, Petersburg, Chancellorsville or the Wilderness. We also were told that the Confederate Museum in Richmond is as good or better than the Museum at Harrisburg. If Andrew signs up and goes to Gettysburg it will furnish the excuse for me to fly back east and for the two of us to take that missing southern Virginia battlefield swing.
Now for a few side comments, beyond the historic sites. We thoroughly enjoyed each other’s company. We traveled together harmoniously and a better companion than Andrew, you couldn’t have. He has a sense of humour, he is thoughtful and helpful and a great aide and comfort to his aged, infirm fat and slow Grandfather. He is near perfect, as I told him repeatedly, but he really should get a haircut.
This vacation wouldn’t have been possible without the encouragement of my wife, Sonny, who is going through a very difficult, painful and debilitating time. She created the time and space so that Andrew and I could share an experience that will last us both a lifetime. Those sorts of experiences cannot be had any other way than by sharing them.
Sonny’s and my dear friends in no special order, Ruth Botzer, Arlene and Rich Dunaetz, Jackie Waterman and Charlotte Gussin-Root were especially helpful and of great comfort and assistance to Sonny.
Thanks again to all that contributed to our Vacation. David
April 20, 2006